When Everybody Smoked

How times have changed. It wasn’t all that long ago that almost everybody smoked cigarettes, cigars and/or pipes.

But the latest statistics for Canada (2020) show that just one Canadian in 10 smokes cigarettes, down from 12% the previous year. More men (12%) smoke than women (9%). These statistics include those who smoke only occasionally.

What a far, far cry from when I was a lad. My parents, grandparents, aunts and uncles smoked, their friends smoked, and when we could sneak them and were playing out of sight in the bushes that lined the nearby CNR tracks, we kids smoked.

We called them coffin nails and someone said that each cigarette took a week off our lives. From the mouths of babes...

Next week on the Chronicles, a look back at the heyday of tobacco in British Columbia.

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PHOTO: One of the most popular brands in Canada was Players Navy Cut. Despite its obvious play on the Royal Navy, my father, who served 20 years in the RCN, smoked Export A.

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Murder On the Parade Square

The demolition, several years ago, of the 1890 Officers’ Mess and Quarters at Work Point, Victoria, inspired a letter to the editor of the Times Colonist warning against disturbing its two resident ghosts.

The writer was referring to the spirits of a Major Steinberg and a four-year-old boy.

Indeed, the former Esquimalt army base should have been haunted–by the spirit of Captain Peter Elliston. The commanding officer of No. 5 Company, Royal Canadian Garrison Artillery met eternity at 9:25 on the morning of Monday, Aug 1, 1910, moments after he’d begun his daily rounds.

That’s when Gunner Thomas ‘Paddy’ Allan, who for weeks had nursed his hatred for this officer who’d given him 21 days’ detention for drunkenness, made good his vow, “I’ve a bullet for him and it will find its billet.”

As indeed it did.

This fascinating story in next week’s Cowichan Chronicles.

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PHOTO: Gunner Paddy Allan. —Author’s Collection

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The Battle of Ballantyne Pier

The strike that locked down British Columbia ports for 13 days is, at least tentatively, over.

It goes without saying that the cost in lost revenues, inconvenience and hard feelings will continue to be felt for some time.

But nothing like the longshoremen’s dispute of June 1935 that was defused by armed police officers using weapons and tear gas. This was during the Great Depression, the Dirty ‘30’s, when many governments, Canada’s provincial and federal included, viewed labour unrest as Communist agitation and a threat to our capitalist society.

In other words, to strike was to commit treason and was to be dealt with by whatever means necessary.

Canadians have come a long way in labour relations over the past 90-odd years. But it hasn’t been an easy road as you’ll see in this week’s Cowichan Chronicles.

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PHOTO: Mounted police officers during the Battle of Ballantyne Pier. —Wikipedia

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HMS Nabob – the Ship That Came Back From the Grave

As His Majesty’s Ship Nabob, this small aircraft carrier has gone down in naval history for surviving a torpedo in August 1944 during an attack on the German battleship Tirpitz.

To the amazement of many, and thanks to the heroism of her crew, she made it safely back to port. But her naval career was over. Sold for scrap, she was rebuilt as a freighter—often coming in to Vancouver—until 1977.

No stranger to B.C., she’d had a previous close call—right here in British Columbia waters, before she went overseas.

That’s next week’s fascinating story in the Chronicles.

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PHOTO: Dangerously down by the stern, HMS Nabob struggles to make it back to home port, —Wikipedia

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Ho! For the Leech River - The Bubble Bursts

(Conclusion)

Finally!—we come to the end of the saga of the Leech River gold rush.

A gold ‘rush’ that continues to this day albeit on a smaller, much quieter and more recreational level than it was for the hopeful miners of 1864 and the Victoria merchants who desperately tried to profit from them.

There was—is—gold in the Leech River: gold as rich as 22 carats. But it came from afar, carried by glaciers and river flow until it became trapped in the Leech’s bed and boulders. Some could be panned, some could be sluiced and recovered with rockers—all brutally hard work and not for the faint of heart.

But it was exciting while it lasted!

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PHOTO: What was left of the “government office” (Gold Commissioner’s cabin) in the 1920’s. —BC Archives

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Ho! for the Leech River

(Part 4)

In July 1864 Victoria had become a quiet backwater, a steamer stop on the way to or from the real action in the gold diggings of the B.C. mainland.

That changed dramatically with the news that members of the Vancouver Island Exploring Expedition had found paying quantities of ‘colour’ in the Sooke and Leech rivers.

Just 10 miles as the crow flies from ‘downtown’ Victoria!

For those who’d come to B.C. too late for the Fraser River or Cariboo riches, for Victoria merchants who’d been quiet and hungry since the great rush of 1858, this was a second chance to grab the golden ring.

That’s this week in the Cowichan Chronicles.

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PHOTO: Prospecting on the Leech River wasn’t for the faint of heart or weak of back. —B.C. Archives

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Stampede! The Rush to the Leech River

(Part 3)
The great gold rushes of the Fraser River and the Cariboo had passed Victoria by. From sleepy Hudson’s Bay Co. stockade to—overnight—a tent city of as many as 30,000 fortune seekers, it had drifted back into an economic slump.

‘Downtown’ buildings stood vacant, weeds grew in its main streets. The party, it seemed, was over.

All that changed—so it was fervently hoped—with news that members of the Vancouver Island Exploring Expedition had found paying quantities of ‘colour’ in the Sooke and Leech rivers.

Not on the Fraser and Thompson rivers. Not in the distant creeks of Cariboo, but just 10 miles, as the crow flies, from Victoria.

It was a whole new ball game.

Over the past two weeks we’ve seen how it slowly began. Next week in the Chronicles the rush begins!

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PHOTO: These headlines in the British Colonist came as a godsend to the merchants and unsuccessful miners biding their time in financially ailing Victoria.

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Ho! for the Leech River

In last week’s Cowichan Chronicles I set the stage for Vancouver Island’s only real gold rush to the Leech River in July 1864.

Within 20 air miles of Victoria, it sparked a stampede to the Sooke hills, and the Leech River continues to be extensively placer mined to this day.

Part 2 of the Leech River gold rush saga in next week’s Cowichan Chronicles.

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PHOTO: As this photo clearly shows, the miners had to earn their pay because the gold was very fine and mostly trapped in fissures and crevices that required back-breaking labour. —British Columbia Archives

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Gold on the Leech River!

Vancouver Island has only known one real gold rush.

Oh, there were moments of excitement over the years, but nothing like what occurred on the B.C. Mainland: the Fraser and Thompson Rivers, the Cariboo, the Omineca, Big Bend, Atlin and the like.

No, Vancouver Island has had to settle, for the most part, for copper and coal mining. The major exception was the Leech River stampede of 1864. It didn’t last long but it sure got people’s blood pumping for a time.

Next week, the Chronicles digs into 160-year-old reports from the Victoria British Colonist for a fascinating glimpse at what was, if only briefly, a true stampede.

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PHOTO: Leechtown never grew to prospectors’ hopes and expectations, as indicated by this humble hotel in the backwoods. —Author’s Collection

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Capt. Bully Hayes, ‘Last of the Buccaneers’

There was a time in the age of wooden ships and iron men when a ship’s captain was God, answerable only to his conscience—if he had one.

Sure, international maritime law banned the physical and mental abuse of seamen—but just try proving that in court, after the fact, with terrorized witnesses and, often, in a foreign jurisdiction.

Sad to say, some ship masters got away with brutalizing their crews (and sometimes their passengers) again and again. One of the worst was Capt. William Henry ‘Bully’ Hayes who, alas, lived up to his nickname all too often and too well.

He could be charming enough when it suited him—as it often did when he was trying to outwit his creditors and the law.

Next week, we explore the infamous Bully Hayes’s connection to British Columbia maritime history in the Cowichan Chronicles.

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PHOTO: The only known photograph of Capt. W.H. ‘Bully’ Hayes, 1827 (or 1829)-1877. —Wikipedia

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Nathan Dougan, the Storyteller

This week, I introduced you to N.P. Nathan Dougan, Cobble Hill and area’s foremost historian, and his son, Bob, who carried the torch until his death in the 1990’s.

Both Dougans contributed greatly to the saving of Cowichan Valley history and, for a latecomer such as myself, it’s always a joy to acknowledge their contributions.

So, next week, a sample of Nathan’s writings from one of his many columns that appeared in the Cowichan Leader in the 1950’s and 1960’s.

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PHOTO: Nathan Dougan, looking distinguished in Sunday suit and tie. —Family photo

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Nathan Dougan Was the ‘First’ Cowichan Chronicler

Yes, I’ve been writing the Chronicles for a long time now, first in the Cowichan Valley Citizen for 23 years and, since, here online.

But Nathan Dougan was way, way ahead of me. For years, from the 1950’s on, he wrote regularly of Cowichan’s colourful history in the Cowichan Leader. After his death, son Bob published many of these articles in a book, Cowichan My Valley, which has become a highly desirable—and expensive—collector’s item.

Nathan Dougan was the son of James and Annie Dougan, of the pioneering Cobble Hill clan for whom that little lake beside the highway, just before the Trans Canada and Cowichan Bay Road junction, is named.

Which would is a worthy legacy in itself. But Nathan Dougan did so much more—he literally saved much of the history of what was then Shawnigan region. And he did it from memory, having grown up with the pioneers who made it all happen—something that a latecomer such as I can never hope to do.

I’ll tell you more about this remarkable man in next week’s Chronicles.

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PHOTO: Nathan Dougan is the man on middle left. —Family photo

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Vancouver Island’s ‘Lost Spanish Mine’

Does a mystery tunnel, complete with steps carved into a solid rock cliff—and a cache of gold bars—exist in a Vancouver Island rain forest? 

It’s one of our most fascinating legends.

The answer to this mystery would solve what must be one of British Columbia’s most intriguing tales of lost treasure—and the key lies within 25 miles of Victoria! 

I told the story of the so-called Lost Spanish Mine in my first book, Treasure, British Columbia, way back in 1971, based on articles I’d written for The Daily Colonist weekend magazine in the 1960’s.

Because my account has been pirated and published many times over the years. you may have read some or much of this elsewhere. But I wrote it first and, like any prospector worth his salt, I’m staking my claim to it!

That’s next week in the Cowichan Chronicles. 

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PHOTO: There has been considerable placer mining activity on Vancouver Island, also, to a lesser degree, lode (hard rock) mining—but a tunnel driven into the rock face with a series of hand-carved steps and gold ingots? —Author’s Collection

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Did Notorious Civil War Guerrilla Leader Escape to Vancouver Island? – Conclusion

Whoever John Sharp may have been, his death was as violent as that of William Clarke Quantrill’s. Shortly after the newspaper stories appeared stating Quantrill was alive, John Sharp died as a result of a brutal beating.

Then began the greatest myth of the “Mystery Man of Quatsino:” the tale of a 40-year-long grudge and murder of vengeance.

According to the legend two Americans who’d suffered at the hands of Quantrill’s raiders during the war, upon seeing newspaper claiming “Quantrill lives....!" journeyed northward on a mission of revenge.

With murder in mind, the pair, said to be “obviously Southerners,” found Sharp at isolated Coal Harbour.

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PHOTO: Unlike these ‘regular’ Union soldiers, Quantrill and his men—and those of Capt. Terrell who hunted him down—were civilian guerrillas. —Wikipedia Commons

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Did Notorious Civil War Guerrilla Leader Escape to Vancouver Island? (Part 3)

According to the history books, Capt. William Clarke Quantrill, the infamous Southern guerrilla leader of the American Civil War, died of his wounds in a Louisville, Kentucky military hospital.

That was in May 1865.

Yet, in August 1907–42 years later—John Sharp, an old watchman at isolated Coal Harbour, Vancouver Island, was “recognized” as Quantrill.

The resulting publicity cost him dearly—his life.

Part 3 of the amazing story of John Sharp aka W.C. Quantrill continues in next week’s Chronicles.

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PHOTO: William C. Quantrill was, perhaps, the most notorious participant in the American Civil War. —Wikipedia

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Did Notorious Civil War Guerrilla Leader Escape to Vancouver Island? (Part 2)

Would you believe that Confederate guerrilla leader William C. Quantrill has three headstones in three American states, including this one at Higginsville, Missouri?

So it’s generally believed.

Or is there a fourth grave for the man who led the raid on Lawrence, Kansas and the massacre of 150 men and boys? A grave, obliterated by air force bulldozers during the Second World War, at remote Coal Harbour, Vancouver Island?

How could that be, you ask? Because of claims that he escaped death in Kentucky and ended up as a watchman in the Quatsino area—where, in 1907, he was tracked down and murdered by two ‘Southerners’ with vengeance on their minds.

The story of John Sharp aka William Quantrill is one of British Columbia’s most intriguing legends. Part 2 in next week’s Chronicles.

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PHOTO: Third and ‘final’ grave of Captain William Quantrill in Higginsville, Missouri. —By KNexus - Own work, Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=12199069

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Did Notorious Civil War Guerrilla Leader Escape to Vancouver Island?

Google William Clarke Quantrill and you’ll find reference after reference to a man who’s immortalized not as a hero or great Confederate general of the American Civil War but as what we term today, a war criminal.

From school teacher to “butcher” in a matter of just a few years, his was quite a career, one that ended violently at the age of 27 during a skirmish with Federal troops.

At least, that’s the accepted version of Quantrill’s death.

But there were those who strongly disagreed. Including two Americans who allegedly travelled all the way to Vancouver Island’s isolated Coal Harbour, where the fugitive guerrilla was living under cover as a watchman by the name of John Sharp. Their mission: to settle old scores.

Or so that version goes.

The fascinating story of John Sharp alias William Quantrill is one that intrigued me at the start of my writing career. How fortunate I was to follow it up and make contact with the last living man who’d known Sharp on Vancouver Island.

He’d been just a boy at the time, a neighbour and friend of the old caretaker, and it was he who found Sharp as he lay, dying, in a pool of blood.  

If ever I’ve had doubts as to my choice of career, it’s stories like the mystery of John Sharp that quickly put them to rest.

You’ll see why in next week’s Chronicles

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PHOTO: William C. Quantrill was, perhaps, the most notorious participant in the American Civil War. —Wikipeida

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'Return to Sender’ – Around the World, Museums Are Relinquishing Priceless Antiquities to Their Rightful Owners

After generations of resistance, the dominoes are falling almost weekly, it seems.  

I’m referring to the sometimes reluctant return of artifacts to their creators, ancient and more modern, in this New Age of cultural awareness and ethnic sensitivity.

In Canada we’re driven by the tsunami that has resulted as one of the key consequences of Truth and Reconciliation—a belated admission that our colonial mindset and governance of two and a-half centuries must change.

You’re seeing this again and again in the news so I’ll not dwell on it here.

My intent in the Chronicles this week is to focus on the growing trend of museums to surrender the priceless antiquities of the ancient worlds—treasures often held by museums far from their creators and countries of origin—but also much closer to home, right here in British Columbia.

To set the stage, here are the latest news items by their headlines:

  • B.C. First Nation arrives in Scotland, asks museum to return totem pole taken in 1929

  • Royal B.C. Museum returning museum to remote First Nation

  • After 138 years, house post returning to Gitxaala Nation

  • Nuxalk Nation celebrates return of totem pole from Royal B.C. Museum

Farther from home, some of these returns, or repatriations as they’ve been termed, are momentous:

  • Mi’kmaq regalia to return home to Nova Scotia after 130 years in an Australian museum

  • Museum: London, Athens could share Parthenon Marbles in deal

  • Swiss museum returns Indigenous relics

  • Chief Poundmaker’s pipe, saddle bag returning from Royal Ontario Museum to descendants

  • Rare, centuries-old jewelry returns to Cambodia

  • With eye on Britain, Greece welcomes back artifacts

In short, we’ve come a long way from banning, seizing and looting.

That’s next week in the Chronicles.

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PHOTO: ‘Coppers’ were among the most prized of B.C. First Nations. The Canadian government confiscated them under threat of criminal prosecution. —Author’s Collection   

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Jack Fannin, ‘Father’ of the Royal BC Museum

The Royal BC Museum has certainly been in the news lately—most of it bad, unfortunately.

You’ve needed a program to follow recent developments: resignations; charges of in-house racial discrimination; a much beloved exhibit demolished then, oh, cancel that, it’s still here and we’ll reopen it after making it more multi-culturally palatable;

The buildings are in danger of sinking into the sea mud if there’s a serious earthquake so we’re going to tear them down and rebuild over seven years at the cost of billions of dollars while we strangle the vital Inner Harbour area with demolition and construction activity. No, cancel that, we’ll make do with what we have while we take a few years to think and talk this out...

Have I overlooked anything?

At least this month’s climate action protest with red paint daubed on the iconic mastodon’s tusks couldn’t be blamed on RBC mismanagement.

But the Chronicles isn’t meant to be a soapbox and this isn’t even my weekly editorial. So let’s go back to the very beginning of our senior museum and archives. It all started in October 1886 in a room just 15 by 20 feet—the size of a single-car garage!

The man who did so much to create today’s RBC by donating his personal collection of stuffed and mounted birds and animals was Jack Fannin, a noted naturalist of his day.

These latest fumbles by management and government must have him spinning in his grave.

That’s next week in the Chronicles.

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PHOTO: Would you believe, looking at it, that the Royal BC Museum is at risk of collapsing in a major earthquake? No problem!—Wikipedia photo

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